I recently had the chance to examine a very primitive Roman sandal, and it led me to wonder how many lives were actually lost to such sandals. Surely the leather thongs and hard flat soles tore into the skin of the feet of many Romans, allowing the filth of a world devoid of modern sanitation to infect the feet of countless men, women and children, who would seek treatment from physicians who were basically guessing at cures.
A visit to the Tower of London had me constantly wondering if Henry VIII had walked in the same exact place that I was walking. The coats of armor begged me to imagine the heat and discomfort, not to mention limited range of movement that their wearers had experienced, and I remain to this day very sceptical that jousts ever actually took place in full armor. Viewing the crown jewels caused me to imagine what it must have been like for a jeweler to create such majesty with rudamentary tools and perhaps a wood fire to melt the gold. The most intriguing thing to me, however, is that this so-called palace was not very grand with its narrow, winding staircases (did no one break an ankle?), low doorways and relatively ostere furnishings.
At the Colliseum in Rome, I compared the lack of ease that I experience climing or descending the steep stairways in modern arenas and stadiums to what it had to have been like with the added challenge of uneven steps. Did the spectators bring cushions on which to sit, or did they sit for hours on the stone benches?
Authenticity is a big deal for me when I'm visiting historic sites. I don't like the idea of too much restoration and I try to ignore the necessity of it; I get afraid that no part of what I'm looking at was ever touched by people who lived hundreds of years ago and that makes it less interesting to me. Could it be that the Mona Lisa has no original paint? What if?
But accuracy is also important. After all, look at our stupid asses -- for years we all believed the capital of China was called Peking! That's pretty major, so whose to say for sure that those food cooking counters in Pompeii aren't really toilets or that the Coronation Chair was ever sat upon by William the Conqueror. Can we even be expected to believe that Queen Elizabeth the first is in that sarcophogus? And wouldn't it be fun to peek sometime?
I actually found an amazing place to get a real history experience here in the U.S. Places like Colonial Williamsburgh and Plymouth Plantation smack of reenactment and that bugs me, but I recently went to the New York City Tenement Museum. Please go! When you do, you'll be given a tour of two apartments. There are more than two, but two takes an hour and that's all you're allowed per visit.
We saw a tiny apartment from 1876 and another one from 1934. I've chosen to believe that the museum really did look up census and other public records as they claim, and I was given a lot of information about one of the families who lived in each place. The linoleum on the 1934 apartment's floors was original, which was so amazing to me. I wanted to touch it with my hand. The building had been vacant from 1935 until 1988, when they began to preserve it as a museum. The guide explained why there were interior windows, and that really painted a picture for me of how sweltering it must have been before airflow was mandated. I started to consider what it was like for a large family to share one bed. We were shown a coal stove and we were told that before indoor plumbing, there were outhouses used by all the tenants plus the saloon on the ground floor but that chamber pots were routinely emptied out open windows. I was actually able to imagine for once what it smelled like in the old days -- coal smoke, raw sewage, horse shit, spoiled food, b.o. -- and I was oddly comforted by that.





